Hey George,
Of course I'm happy to share. I'll break them up into multiple posts, one for each scale, ans I'll start with Z on the head. I believe we can only upload 5 images per post, and I really like to take photos... I wish you the best and speedy recovery from your surgery.
Main View - There are three points of contact and I tried to minimize the number of holes drilled into the machine. Once I got over trying to maintain originality and convinced myself making it my machine wasn't a crime it was game on! For most all of the brackets made I have one (or two) screw mounting to the machine and a series of set screws to level on on the castings. I love old iron and this is something we all have to deal with with large draft angles and irregularity in manufacturing of non critical surfaces. The set screw method worked across the board.
I chose to remove the ruler needle for Z travel on my head and use this for mounting and moving the scale body once assembled. I used the hole for the set screw for one of the mounting points for the bracket and had to drill and tap a second.
A bracket was made out of 2" aluminum angle from a local hardware store. I bought a length to use as a guard for the Y and Z and it worked out here too. I started with a paper template, then made a series of 3D printed brackets, and finally the aluminum version. You should note that there is a slight kink in the arm to make it through the the vertical slot and get me close to where I was going to mount the scale. The scale has a series of tapped holes on the side and I used two of them. I believe a previous post calls out their spec, as they are metric.
The top of the scale arm is held on with a rectangular bracket. The aluminum has a through hole in the center that the mounting screw goes through capturing the scale bracket. Left and right are set screws used to align everything. Two clearance holes were drilled in the scale bracket to allow for the set screws to pass through. Also the scale bracket has a slot so I was able to move left and right, withing reason, while aligning.
The bottom mount is a combination of two brackets the firs is a plate mounted to the head that reaches out right. This is held on with two screws and is shimmed to get it as close to parallel to X as a possible. I use eyeball technology on this one because the second bracket has set screws similar to the top bracket to take up all the alignment directions. Note that the corners were cut off the scale bracket to allow for the set screws to pass through.
These worked out great and were minimally invasive. One tapped hole inside the head, one on the pulley casting and two on the head at the bottom. I had to cut some off the bottom of the scale and modify a couple of the supplied brackets. I don't remember exactly how much I cut off the scale, but I believe it was ~1" and I used a standard dremel cut off wheel. The first cut was the scary... but it wasn't all that bad in the end. Remember you have some wiggle room in in the mounting brackets on the end if you get too zealous.
One thing I learned after all three scales were mounted that may help in your planning is that Yuriy has allowed for inverting the reading on the scales in his software. This means that if you would rather a cable go a different direction you don't have to worry about it during the planning and mounting process. Way to go Yuriy, thank you!
Hit me up with questions. If you need more photos I'll gladly take them. I'll follow up with the X next. Not sure when, hopefully in the next day or so.
Thank you for stopping by,
_Mike