iGaging Stainless Steel Absolute DRO Scales?

[Radnoaz]

It seems like maybe buying the Mixed Scale kit would be the best future-proofing choice, but I'd like to know which kit would be recommended for using scales like these iGaging SS Absolute DRO models? And does anyone know which type of USB plug these scales use? 

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00LNEHB04/r...c_continue

[Yuriy]

It seems like maybe buying the Mixed Scale kit would be the best future-proofing choice, but I'd like to know which kit would be recommended for using scales like these iGaging SS Absolute DRO models? And does anyone know which type of USB plug these scales use? 

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00LNEHB04/r...c_continue

Mixed scale kit doesn't support Absolute DRO scales, so you will need to get the "iGaging" version of the controller. Generally speaking, Mixed Scale Kit is a compromise designed to be inexpensive and easy to build; "iGaging" controller is designed specifically for iGaging scales and works much better with them. You can read more about pros and const here: http://www.yuriystoys.com/2016/09/pre-ma...rison.html.

These scales come wit Mini and Micro B controllers (newer ones are Micro-B). The picture in your link are of the really old Absolute DRO, not Absolute DRO+ (plus). The former is not supported since it uses weird protocol. Chances are these are just an old stock picture. I haven't seen old scales for sale for a couple of years. If I were you I would contact the seller.

If you get Micro-B scales, you won't need to solder anything: I now sell a board with preinstalled Micro-B connectors. You'll just need to make an enclosure and you're good to go.

That said, these scales are way overpriced for what they are. They are 2x the price of the "classic" aluminum scales but accuracy and resolution is about the same once you mount them to the heavy cast iron machine frame.

Regards
Yuriy

[Radnoaz]

It seems like maybe buying the Mixed Scale kit would be the best future-proofing choice, but I'd like to know which kit would be recommended for using scales like these iGaging SS Absolute DRO models? And does anyone know which type of USB plug these scales use? 

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00LNEHB04/r...c_continue

Mixed scale kit doesn't support Absolute DRO scales, so you will need to get the "iGaging" version of the controller. Generally speaking, Mixed Scale Kit is a compromise designed to be inexpensive and easy to build; "iGaging" controller is designed specifically for iGaging scales and works much better with them. You can read more about pros and const here: http://www.yuriystoys.com/2016/09/pre-ma...rison.html.

These scales come wit Mini and Micro B controllers (newer ones are Micro-B). The picture in your link are of the really old Absolute DRO, not Absolute DRO+ (plus). The former is not supported since it uses weird protocol. Chances are these are just an old stock picture. I haven't seen old scales for sale for a couple of years. If I were you I would contact the seller.

If you get Micro-B scales, you won't need to solder anything: I now sell a board with preinstalled Micro-B connectors. You'll just need to make an enclosure and you're good to go.

That said, these scales are way overpriced for what they are. They are 2x the price of the "classic" aluminum scales but accuracy and resolution is about the same once you mount them to the heavy cast iron machine frame.

Regards
Yuriy

Thank you for the nicely detailed reply! So....is it your opinion then that I would get the same durability and accuracy on my 10 x 22 metal lathe out of a set of the aluminum scales? I was just looking at the SS ones thinking they would be more durable, and their specs claim slightly higher accuracy over distance. If I wanted to go with the older Aluminum ones, which would you recommend? My new lathe isn't here yet, but I believe it will need a 12" and a 24" scales for the cross slide and carriage. It is a Grizzly G0752. The cross slide actually moves 6.5", not 6" as I thought, so I need an 8" scale, but I think I will end up having to cut down a 12" model to get the same type of scale as the 24" models I have been looking at.

 I really appreciate your help. I have a Shumatech DRO 350 I built years ago, and am somewhat familiar with how the scale manufacturers started making things incompatible.

How about these? Shars has them on sale!

http://www.shars.com/24-digital-machine-aluminum-scale
http://www.shars.com/12-digital-machine-aluminum-scale

If they will work, I think I would like to use the Shars scales with which ever of your kits would be best.

I really appreciate your help in deciding. I have a Shumatech DRO 350 I built years ago, and am somewhat familiar with how the scale manufacturers started making things incompatible. So I am not too sure about what works with what these days.

[Briney Eye]

I used the Shars aluminum scales on my 10x24 Logan lathe with the Mixed Scale kit. The encoding strip runs all the way to the end so by floating one end of a 6" scale I got 7" of useful travel out of it. They were noisy until I added a 0.01uF ceramic capacitor across power and ground. Search for my other posts on the subject.

[Radnoaz]

I used the Shars aluminum scales on my 10x24 Logan lathe with the Mixed Scale kit.  The encoding strip runs all the way to the end so by floating one end of a 6" scale I got 7" of useful travel out of it.  They were noisy until I added a 0.01uF ceramic capacitor across power and ground.  Search for my other posts on the subject.

Thanks for the reply! After posting I did look around a bit on this forum, and ran across your posting about the capacitors added. I can certainly do that. When I built my DRO 350 for my mini mill, I had to add caps to the chinese scales it uses, for similar reasons. Another thing we had to deal with on those Chinese scales was reverse ground polarity ( the frame being + ) with respect to the ground of the machine itself. As I recall, we had to leave the ground braid inside the cable disconnected from the scale itself to prevent problems. Do these aluminim scales still have that same issue?

So the aluminum scales are working well on your lathe? 

That's a neat trick, getting 7" of travel on a 6 inch scale. It offers a handy solution to my needing 6.5" travel on the cross slide, and would save me some money, not having to buy a more costly 12" scale and cut it down to use it. I've noticed several photos on various sites showing scales mounted only on one end, as I researched options to add a DRO to the new lathe. It seems to me that would also mitigate the need for very precise scale positioning when 3 fastening points are used, so would make the mounting process easier.

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Where does Yuriy ship these kits from?

[Briney Eye]

The Shars aluminum scales are working great, and don't have the power polarity issue. The head is somewhat flimsy compared to the stainless steel, which actually have a stainless backplate. I'm just a hobbyist, and I'm not getting any younger, so I don't think durability will ever be an issue.

I mounted the cross slide scale in the slot above the lead screw on my lathe rather than on the side, with a very substantial mounting bracket. I moved the slide in to the limit of its travel before tightening all the screws, making it self-aligning. The extra scale overhang didn't concern me since my Logan Model 200's motor assembly sticks out so far anyway.

I'm really happy with my setup. Good luck with yours.

[Ralphxyz]

I found out to late that you should never fasten tight both ends of a dro.

My first attempt was putting twist on the travel rod and eventually permanently damaged the head.

Then I read later on in the forums to let one end flat with no screw or a big hunk of foam.

If you want full travel just fasten one end.

[Radnoaz]

Actually, you can fasten both ends on a scale (mine have been, for about 10 years, on my mill) but you have to be very super critical to make the scale mount adjustments so that it matches parallel, in 3D, to the travel of the moving piece to which it is attached. I have both traveling head, and traveling scale bar configurations in use.

I do the mounting of the scales before the final tightening of the gib screws, when setting up a mini mill. I can feel the added resistance in cranking the axis (when the gibs are loose enough so things move very freely) if I have the scale out of true. Plus, if the mounting screws are left slightly loose while adjusting the scale, you can see it move or try to twist when it doesn't follow parallel to the line of travel. It doesn't help that the base castings on some mini mills have sides that are not perpendicular to the bench. I mill angled blocks of aluminum to fill in the space and set the scale plumb to the bench, as well as angling the head bracket, if necessary, so the head will also be plumb.

[Yuriy]

Actually, you can fasten both ends on a scale (mine have been, for about 10 years, on my mill) but you have to be very super critical to make the scale mount adjustments so that it matches parallel, in 3D, to the travel of the moving piece to which it is attached. I have both traveling head, and traveling scale bar configurations in use.

I do the mounting of the scales before the final tightening of the gib screws, when setting up a mini mill. I can feel the added resistance in cranking the axis (when the gibs are loose enough so things move very freely) if I have the scale out of true. Plus, if the mounting screws are left slightly loose while adjusting the scale, you can see it move or try to twist when it doesn't follow parallel to the line of travel. It doesn't help that the base castings on some mini mills have sides that are not perpendicular to the bench. I mill angled blocks of aluminum to fill in the space and set the scale plumb to the bench, as well as angling the head bracket, if necessary, so the head will also be plumb.

One thing you can do is to use thin spring steel to make the head mounting bracket so ti will give it a bit of play perpendicularly to the axis of travel but will still be rigid along the axis. Generally correct rigid mounting will result in better accuracy, so the time you invest there will pay off in the long run.

Also, to answer your earlier question: I ship from Portland, OR, generally on the following weekend.